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|Your best tool against frost buildup: a cheap little 12V fan. These can be found in junk stores or can be purchased new for just a few bucks. Don't bother to get a really good one... the cheapest all plastic units work just great. I got mine used for $3 at a junk store.||
|To use the fan, relocate all the items on the top shelf of your fridge to lower shelves. Turn off the fridge. Place the fan where it will blow air directly on the cooling fins in the fridge compartment. Now plug it in and close the door! You may have to open the door occasionally and move the little fan to blow air on a different section of the fins, but after only an hour or so, it will melt off the accumulated frost! If you have a big buildup, after an hour or so you can reach in and slide the chunks of ice off the cooling fins easily. This really works and the best part is that the food in your fridge stays adequately cold while the fridge is off. Total time needed for a full defrost is usually only an hour or so. If you do this regularly, it keeps your fridge working at peak efficiency. Try it, you'll like it! Don't forget to turn the fridge back on when you're done!|
|To defrost the freezer, turn off the fridge and relocate all the frozen items into the refrigerator compartment. It helps to put the frozen items all together in a bag and, of course, it's a good idea to do this when your stock of frozen stuff is running low.... Now prop the freezer compartment door open and place your trusty little fan to blow air into the freezer. It's amazing how fast this works.... on a warm day, it will only take an hour or so to loosen all the accumulated frost and ice. Plus, there's no chance of damaging the freezer compartment by scraping or by using a heat source like a blow dryer. My little fan has a suction cup that works just great to stick it to the open freezer door. Keep an eye on it so that the melt water doesn't overflow and make a mess! The bag of frozen stuff will keep the food cold in the fridge and won't have time to defrost to any serious extent. After the ice is gone, dry the inside of the freezer compartment, close the door and turn the fridge back on and set it to 'Max'. Once the freezer cools back down, you can move all the frozen items back in. Remember to turn the fridge back down to the normal setting!|
|To keep the inside of the fridge at a uniform temperature, you can buy one of those little battery powered fridge fans or try this slick little project. If your fridge has a light fixture similar to this, you can cut a small hole and install one of those tiny little fans used to cool computer processors. These fans are about 1.5 inches square and draw less than a tenth of an amp of 12V power.. There's already 12V power available right in the light fixture and it's easy to install a small switch to turn off the fan when the fridge is not in use. The fan blows air out into the fridge compartment and circulates the air nicely, keeping everything uniformly cool inside. Mine has been running nonstop for more than 3 years and continues to work great. These little fans are available from many electronic surplus stores for about $5 - $7 bucks. If you can't find one, try All Electronics Corp. They have an online catalog at www.allelectronics.com||
|This little item is a real winner! I was skeptical when I bought it,
but it has performed very well. It's called the Acu-Gage Tank Level Monitoring
System. The system monitors up to four nonmetallic tanks. Systems that
us in-tank probes often fail due to clogged or corroded sensors. These
sensors mount on the outside and actually read through the tank wall. Installation
is pretty easy and in most cases you can use the existing wiring from your
old tank sensors to hook this baby up. The panel requires 2 3/8"Hx 5 1/2"W
cutout. I'm very impressed with the accuracy and repeatability of the sensors.
Plus, they work perfectly all the time... no more false readings due to
sludge or yuck in the tanks. The kit includes a 1/4"W x 2 3/4" metal panel,
four tank sensors, wire nuts, connectors, foil, special adhesive, fuse
holder, and illustrated instructions. To install it, you glue a couple
of foil strips onto the outside of the plastic tank, attach the sensor
module with stickum and hook up the wires. The panel can be mounted just
about anywhere due to it's small size. A simple calibration procedure is
then used to set the unit up for your tanks. I highly recommend this unit
if you like knowing how full your holding tanks REALLY are.
Available from Camper's Choice or Camping World catalogs.
|Here's a cheap and simple solution to keeping those reference books in order. A couple of inexpensive plastic magazine files attached to the inside of a cabinet works great! I attached them with a couple of screws, but velcro or double-sided sticky tape would work too. Simple and effective... Keeps the books undamaged and right where you can reach them!|
|After a couple years of continuous use, my greywater tank started draining real slow.... about the same time, the kitchen sink also started draining real slow. I pulled the sink trap apart and found a greasy white build-up almost blocking the pipe.... probably composed of soap scum and grease and oil. I'm really careful about putting any grease down the sink, but some is gonna go down there no matter what you do. It was easy to clean out the sink drain, but how am I gonna clean the crud out of the greywater tank? I went looking at a local RV supplier and the only thing that I could find was a bottle of stuff that was supposed to "clean tank probes". It was pretty expensive, about $15, and I wasn't sure it would do the job, so I got to talking to one of the RV service guys. He suggested a product made by Liquid Plumber that is a build-up remover. Sure enough, I found some at the local grocery and it was only a few bucks. The label said it was designed to break down greasy build-up... hey, sounds like just the thing! I started with an empty tank, poured the whole bottle down the drain and followed it with about 5 gallons of hot water. Then I hit the road and drove all day. That night when I parked, I didn't open the greywater dump valve. I just let it stay in the tank and let the tank fill up for a day or so with normal greywater. When the tank was mostly full, I dumped it and it seems to drain normally again. Yay! After the tank emptied, I closed the valve and poured some TST down the drain with a little water to lubricate the dump valve seals. Obviously, there is some risk in using a chemical in your holding tanks that wasn't specifically designed for RVs. The label on the jug said it was safe for all types of pipes and septic systems. It worked well for me but YMMV.... Use at your own risk.|
|Buy the stuff. It's available at most home supply stores and hardware stores.||Apply the sticky tape onto the metal frame around the window.||Place the clear plastic film loosely over the window and stick it to the tape.|
|Shrink it to remove the wrinkles, etc. They say to use a hair dryer,
but a small electric heater works fine, too.
|Trim the excess film away and you're done!|